Most people who buy a tent put a lot of emphasis on the fabric, the poles, and the construction — and then forget about the pegs. That’s a mistake. In normal weather, it’s not noticeable. But when the wind really blows, it’s the pegs that determine whether the tent holds its shape, and in the worst case, whether it stays in place at all.

The problem is, the subject is more complex than it seems. There are dozens of variations on the market, and the marketing is often vague. This guide will break down what really matters: the impact of profile on pull-out resistance, how material affects strength per gram, and — perhaps most importantly — how to choose the right pole for the terrain you're actually camping on.

01 · The Basics What does a ground stake do?

A ground stake is held in place by friction against the surrounding soil and the area that acts against the pull-out force. These are two separate mechanisms that work together, and it is crucial to understand the difference.

Pull-out resistance is the force required to pull the peg straight up out of the ground. It is determined primarily by the peg's length and contact area with the ground — a wider cross-section that is pressed against more ground holds better. A Y-peg with three wings has more area against the ground than a round peg of the same diameter, and therefore holds better in loose soil.

Lateral loading — the force that the wind creates horizontally through the guylines — is another matter. Here the bending stiffness of the stick and the strength of the material play a role. A thin stick made of soft aluminum can bend sideways under high load; one made of titanium or harder alloys holds its shape better.

The angle of attachment affects how the load is distributed. A pole that sits straight down will take less side load than a pole set at a 45–60 degree angle away from the tent. It’s a simple technical adjustment that makes a big difference — more on that in the technical section.

02 · Construction Profiles — what makes them different?

The cross-sectional shape of the peg — the profile — is the single most important factor in how well it holds in the ground. Here are the most common types and their characteristics.

03 · Materials Aluminum, titanium and carbon fiber

The material affects weight, strength, flexibility, and price. There are four main categories of hiking poles — and they differ significantly in how they behave under load.

Aluminum is the most common material and the right choice for most people. 6061 alloy is softer and bends easily if you hit it wrong, but is easy to fix. 7000 series (like 7075) is harder, holds its shape better under load but can be damaged by repeated hits on rocks.

Titanium offers the best strength-per-gram ratio of any metal. A titanium V-profile pole is noticeably lighter than its aluminum counterpart but holds up just as well or better. The price is considerably higher. For those optimizing pack weight, titanium is the obvious choice — but not necessary for normal tours.

Carbon fiber is extremely light but has a problematic breaking behavior. Under lateral load, a carbon fiber pole can break abruptly, leaving sharp edges that can damage the tent fabric. Used by ultralight hikers who optimize every gram, but not recommended for exposed mountain conditions.

Steel is now the exception in lightweight hiking due to its weight. But in special situations — climbing anchors, permanent campsites, hard frozen ground — steel's resilience is hard to beat.

04 · Dimensions How long should the ground stake be?

The length of the peg directly affects pull-out resistance — a longer peg has more material in contact with the ground and holds better. But the length must be matched to the soil type; in hard, compacted soil, extra length provides marginally increased durability, while in loose soil and sand, an extra centimeter can make a big difference.

Rule of thumb: if you regularly camp in mountainous terrain or in exposed locations, it's worth upgrading to 20cm Y or V-pegs in 7000 series aluminium or titanium. They are rarely included with the tent but make a noticeable difference in real-world conditions.

05 · Soil types The right peg for the right soil

This is where most misjudgments occur. A stick that fits perfectly in a forest campsite may be completely useless on a mountain ridge with shale soil or at a sandy beach. Here is a review of the most common soil types.

06 · Winter Snow and ice — completely different rules

Snow and ice require a different understanding of anchoring. Conventional ground pegs work poorly in snow and not at all in ice. Here are the actual methods used by experienced winter hikers and expedition teams.

Deadman anchor (snow)

The deadman method is the standard solution for deep loose to medium snow. The technique: dig a horizontal trench and lay an anchor flat in the bottom — a dedicated snow anchor bolt, a short log, a snow shovel, or whatever else you have available. Cover and stomp. The line is attached to the center of the anchor and brought up out of the trench at a 90° angle to the anchor. As the snow packs around the anchor, the holding force increases dramatically — a well-made deadman anchor in packed snow can hold hundreds of kilograms.

Specially designed snow anchors (snow pickets, snow flukes) are platform-like aluminum plates designed for just this purpose. A snow fluke has an angled design that causes it to dig deeper into the snow the more it is loaded — extraordinarily effective in packed snow but requires proper handling.

Helix spikes in snow

Helix pegs (screw pegs) work well in medium to hard packed snow. Screw down vertically to full depth. In loose snow, pull-out resistance is limited; in windscoured packed snow or firn, a helix peg can hold excellently. Advantage: quick assembly without digging. Disadvantage: requires some resistance in the snow to function.

Snow walls and windbreaks

In extreme wind conditions on glaciers and high altitude expeditions, anchoring is combined with protective walls of packed snow. A wall of snow that breaks the wind radically reduces the forces on the tent and can be crucial for survival in storm conditions. Bury the tent in a crescent-shaped snow barricade on the windward side. Combined with solid deadman anchors, this provides the strongest possible system in snow.

Ice — a separate category

Pure core ice (glacial ice) requires ice augers or ice screws. Conventional tent pegs will not hold in ice and should not be driven in — the risk of the peg blowing out ice and creating an unstable point is high. Aluminum or steel ice augers are manually driven in and can carry very high loads in compact ice.

In practice, most Scandinavian winter hikers do not encounter pure glacial ice, but rather frozen lakes, wind-packed mountain snow and core ice in crevices. On frozen lakes, ice screws work well; on wind-packed snow (firn), longer helix pegs or deadman anchors are often sufficient.

07 · Technology Fastening — what is most often done wrong

The right stick at the wrong angle will hold less than a simpler stick at the right angle. The technique is simple but often ignored.

Attachment angle: Always drive the peg at a 45-60 degree angle away from the tent — that is, leaning away from the direction the string is pulling. A peg that sits straight down takes the side load towards its weakest axis. A peg at the right angle allows the ground around the top of the peg to actively counteract the pull-out force.

Hook Up: Insert the peg with the hook or loop pointing up and toward the tent. If the peg is pulled up out of the ground, you want the string to grab the hook, not slip off it.

Hit the entire pin: A half-down pin has dramatically less holding power. Hit until the top edge of the pin is level with the ground surface — not above, not a bit below. Above the ground surface reduces effective length; too deep down makes removal difficult.

Check the direction: The angle of the guyline from the tent determines the direction the force is applied. Place the peg exactly in line with the guyline — not off to the side. A peg that is not in line with the pull will take the force less effectively.

Double pegs: In really exposed locations, combine two pegs in a V formation for each critical guyline: drive one peg in the normal direction and a second 20–30 cm behind it, connecting them with a short cord. This provides more than double the holding power of a single peg.

08 · Buying Guide What to get?

There is no complete universal kit, but there is a rational starting point depending on where you are hiking.

Scandinavian three-season hiking (forest, mountains, coast): 8–10 Y-pegs in 7000 series aluminum, 18–20 cm. Replace the pegs that come with the tent — they are often 6061 and too short. This is the single most effective upgrade you can make to a new tent.

Ultra-lightweight: Titanium V-profile poles, 17–18 cm. Saves 30–50% weight compared to the aluminum equivalent without compromising strength. Reasonable for those who count every gram.

Coast and sand: Supplement with 4–6 helix pegs or wide sand anchors. Not always needed but invaluable when needed.

Winter and snow: 2–4 snow anchors (snow pickets) or a pair of longer helix pins (25–30 cm) in aluminum. Supplement with knowledge of the deadman technique — it is the method, not the tool, that makes the difference.