Hiking in Härjedalen: A guide to Sonfjället, Funäsfjällen and the wild mountain world

Härjedalen is the landscape that refuses to apologize for its wildness. Here you will encounter not only Sweden's highest roads and villages, but also a mountain world that feels more original and raw than in many other places. It is a region where the bare mountains begin early and where the silence is only broken by the wind or a distant raven's cry.

For those looking for a genuine mountain experience, Härjedalen is a goldmine. Whether you aim for the dramatic peaks around Funäsfjällen or want to hike in the bear kingdom of Sonfjället National Park, the terrain demands respect. Hiking here is not about "conquering" nature, but about adapting to it. Those who pack too heavy will quickly notice it in their legs when the climbs begin, and those who pack too light risk their safety when the infamous mountain weather changes take hold.

Sonfjället National Park – Hiking in the bear's kingdom

Sonfjället (or Sånfjället) is one of Europe's oldest national parks, founded in 1909. What strikes you first is the character of the massif; it lies like an isolated island of high mountains in a sea of forest. But Sonfjället is best known for one thing: its bear population.

Hiking here is a constant reminder of the presence of wildlife. Although you rarely see a bear – they are experts at avoiding people – chances are you will see tracks in the form of dug anthills or droppings.

Recommended trails in Sonfjället

• Around Sonfjället (approx. 18–20 km): A solid day trip that takes you around the entire massif. You pass through mountain forests, over barren boulder fields and vast mountain heaths. It is a trip that requires good fitness and stable shoes.
• Summit trip to Högfjället: From Nyvallen it heads upwards. The view from the top is miles wide and gives a clear overview of Härjedalen's rolling landscape.
• Sodo Valley: A hike into the heart of the massif. The valley has an almost enchanted feel and is an excellent place for those who want to experience the wilderness feeling without necessarily standing on the highest peak.

When hiking in Sonfjället, it is important to move sensibly. Stick to the trails to minimize wear and tear on the sensitive mountain heath and always carry a layer of reinforcement with you, even if the sun is shining at Nyvallens fäbod.

Funäsfjällen – Contrasts and bare mountains

If Sonfjället is the wilderness, then Funäsfjällen is the stronghold of variety. With areas such as Funäsdalen, Bruksvallarna, Ramundberget and Tänndalen, everything from easy family trips to technically challenging hikes is offered here.

Funäsfjällen's "30 Gold Tours" system is a fantastic resource. These are carefully selected day trips that show the best of the area. Here you often hike at high altitude with miles of visibility right from the start.

Gold grains in the Funäs Mountains

• Mittåkläppen: One of the most photographed peaks in Härjedalen. Its characteristic silhouette is visible from afar, and the hike up is rewarded with a 360-degree view that includes both Norwegian mountains and the Swedish major peaks.
• Rogen Nature Reserve: For those looking for a different experience, Rogen is a must. The terrain is known for its labyrinthine lake systems and "Rogen moraine" - elongated ridges of rock and boulders created during the ice age. It is a blocky and at times difficult environment that requires good balance and focus.

In this type of alpine environment, tent choice is crucial. A wind-stable, lightweight tent like the 3F UL Gear Lanshan is perfect here. It weighs little in your backpack but offers the protection needed when the wind picks up on the bare mountain.

The Big Five and the rare musk ox

Härjedalen is one of the few areas in Sweden where you have a chance to see traces of, or with great luck actually see, the "big five" predators: bear, wolverine, lynx, wolf and golden eagle. But there is another animal that is unique to these regions: the musk ox.

The musk oxen of Härjedalen live wild in the border areas with Norway. They are remnants of the Ice Age and look like something out of a prehistoric movie. But remember: Keep your distance. A musk ox may look clumsy, but it is fast and can become aggressive if it feels crowded. A safety zone of at least 200 meters is an absolute requirement, both for your safety and to avoid disturbing the animals.

If you want to learn more about these fascinating creatures without risking disturbing the wild tribe, the Musk Ox Centre in Tännäs is an excellent destination.

Equipment for Alpine Environment – "The Big Three"

When planning your hike in Härjedalen, the focus should be on function and weight. The alpine environment is unpredictable. What happens if the temperature drops to zero degrees in August? Do you have the margins on your side? We usually talk about "The Big Three" – the three parts that weigh the most and affect your experience the most: the tent, the backpack and the sleeping system.

1. The tent – Your protection against the weather

In Härjedalen it can blow up quickly. A tent for mountain use should not only be light, it must also be able to handle wind pressure. Choose a tent with a low profile and strong attachment points. For the solo hiker, a 1-person tent is often the most logical choice to keep the weight down, but a 2-person tent gives that extra space to dry wet clothes in bad weather.

2. The Backpack – Balance and Comfort

A good backpack should feel like a part of your body. For a multi-day trip in Härjedalen, a volume of 45–60 liters is often enough if you have modern, compact equipment. The key is to carry the weight on your hips. At Hikingstore you will find models that prioritize low weight without sacrificing carrying comfort.

3. The Sleep System – Recovery is Safety

Many people make the mistake of only looking at the comfort temperature of their sleeping bag . But without a good sleeping pad, the sleeping bag doesn't matter – the cold ground will suck the heat out of you.

For mountain hiking, we recommend a down sleeping bag due to its superior weight-to-warmth ratio and packability. If you want to delve deeper into CUIN values and the difference between different types of down, you should read our complete guide to bird down in sleeping bags . There we explain why high-quality down is a hiker's best friend on cold mountain nights.

Safety and balance – Anders' last advice

Hiking in Härjedalen is a fantastic experience, but it is also an environment that requires you to be honest with yourself. Always ask yourself: "What is the worst that can happen, and am I prepared for it?"

• Water: In Härjedalen, the water is usually clean and drinkable directly from the streams, but choose running water high up.
• Navigation: Never rely solely on your cell phone. Batteries die in the cold, and coverage is patchy. A map and compass are mandatory.
• Weather: Turn around in time. The mountain will still be there tomorrow, but fog on the bare mountain can make orientation impossible in a few minutes.

Packing light isn’t just about saving your knees; it’s about having energy left over to make smart decisions when fatigue sets in. The best gear is the one you don’t have to think about during your hike – the one that just does its job so you can focus on the view.

Härjedalen awaits. Pack smart, respect the animals and enjoy the freedom of the bare mountains.