Hiking on Öland – A guide to the best hiking trails on the island of sun and wind

Öland is not like the rest of Sweden. It is a place where the horizon is always present, where the limestone bedrock dictates the conditions for all living things and where the wind is a constant companion. For the hiker, Öland offers a unique experience that is more reminiscent of the Central Asian steppes or the southern European limestone plateaus than the Småland forest or the Norrland mountains.

But don't be fooled by the flat landscape. Hiking on Öland, especially over Stora Alvaret, places specific demands on both equipment and preparation. There are no deep valleys to seek shelter in, and natural water sources are almost non-existent during the summer months. In this guide, we'll go over how to tackle the "island of the sun and winds" in a pragmatic and safe way.

Stora Alvaret – A unique UNESCO World Heritage Site

Stora Alvaret is the heart of southern Öland's World Heritage and one of the island's strongest reasons to hike here at all. It is a unique UNESCO World Heritage site with barren nature, thin soil, low vegetation and expansive views that few other places in Sweden can match. The landscape looks almost simple from a distance, but out on the ground you quickly notice that the open surface, wind and sun make demands.

When you hike here, you move across "alvarmark" - an environment where a thin layer of soil rests directly on the hard limestone. This makes the terrain hard on the feet and significantly more demanding than the elevation curves on the map suggest. Hiking here is less about altitude and more about endurance, pace and the ability to handle an exposed landscape. In fog or rapid weather changes, the large open spaces can also be disorienting.

That is precisely why Stora Alvaret should be highlighted. It is not only a beautiful backdrop along the trail, but one of Öland's most distinctive natural environments. Those who walk here get great views, silence and a landscape that feels both austere and alive at the same time.

Mörbylångaleden – Öland's crown jewel

The Mörbylångaleden trail is the crown jewel of hiking on Öland and one of STF's signature trails. It is approximately 84 kilometers long and takes you from Färjestaden in the north all the way down to Långe Jan on the southern tip. This is the trail for those who want to understand how much variety Öland actually holds: coast, cultivated landscape, deciduous forest, alvar and bird-rich sea stretches all in the same trip.

It is also a trail that is well suited for stage hiking. You don't have to do it all in one go, but you should think through each section based on weather, water and transportation options.

Suggested stages along the Mörbylångaleden trail

1. Färjestaden to Linné Station (18 km)
   A good starting stretch that lets you get into the rhythm without the day becoming unnecessarily long. Here you get a gentle introduction to southern Öland and a clear sense of how the open landscape gradually spreads out.

2. Further through Mittlandsskogen
   Mittlandsskogen is northern Europe's largest broadleaf forest and gives a completely different feel to the open areas further south. This is a good reminder that Öland is not just mountains and coast. The forest provides variety, some protection from the sun and a slower pace underfoot.

3. Seby Location for birdwatching and coastal walking
   Seby Läge is one of the routes where Öland's coastal environment really comes into its own. It combines birdwatching with easy, coastal hiking. It's especially good if you want a stage where the nature experience takes up a little more space than the distance itself.

4. Ending at the Långe Jan lighthouse and Ottenby
   Finishing at Långe Jan and Ottenby is a strong end to the trail. Here you are met by the sea, open fields and one of Sweden's most well-known bird areas. The goal feels clear and concrete, which makes the final stage more memorable than many other trail endings.

The Mörbylångaleden trail is at its best when you walk it with realistic expectations. It is not technically difficult, but the open terrain makes it more demanding than many first think. The wind, the sun and the surface are things that become noticeable after a few hours.

Equipment for Öland's unique conditions

Choosing equipment for Öland is about understanding the two dominant factors: wind and hard surface .

The Tent – Your Castle in the Wind

On Öland there are rarely any trees to provide shelter. If you plan to camp on Alvaret, your tent must be able to handle wind from all directions. A stable dome tent or a well-constructed tunnel tent with good anchoring options is a must.

Another challenge is the ground itself. The thin layer of soil means that regular tent pegs often break. We recommend that you carry extra strong Y-shaped tent pegs, but be prepared that you may need to anchor the storm ropes with heavy stones (which fortunately are plentiful in the alvar).

Sleep and recovery

Although Öland is associated with sun, nights on the open alvar can be cool, and the ground chill from the limestone is noticeable. A sleeping pad with a good R-value is crucial to not losing heat into the ground.

When it comes to choosing a sleeping bag, down is often preferred for its weight and packability, especially on longer hikes like the Mörbylångaleden. For a deeper dive into how to choose the right insulation, we recommend our complete guide to down in sleeping bags , where we explain the difference between goose and duck down and what the CUIN value actually means for your night's sleep. You can find our range of sleeping bags here .

Shoes and feet

Many people think that the flat landscape requires heavy boots for ankle support, but on Öland, cushioning is more important. The hard limestone surface and the asphalted or graveled sections along the Mörbylångaleden can be unforgiving to the joints. A well-cushioned hiking shoe or a lighter boot is often a better choice than a stiff alpine boot.

Logistics: Water, sun and bus times

This is the most critical point for hiking on Öland: Water.
Unlike in the mountains, you can't expect to find drinkable water in streams. In Stora Alvaret, most of the wets (small, occasionally water-filled depressions) dry up completely during the summer.

You must carry all the water you need for the day, plus extra. Plan on at least 3 liters per person per day if it's hot and sunny. Plan your stages around where you can refill your water – rest areas like Penåsa and the villages along the way are your lifelines. Make sure you have a backpack with room for large water bladders or bottles.

On Öland you also need to think about sun protection in a more active way than on many other hikes in Sweden. The alvar is very open, and it is quickly noticeable when the sun is out for several hours. A cap or hat, sunscreen and a plan where you don't take chances with the amount of water are basic, not excessive.

Another practical point is transportation. Check bus times in advance , especially if you plan to walk individual sections of the Mörbylångaleden. Buses don't always run as frequently as you'd hope, and a poorly timed finish can easily turn a reasonable day trip into an unnecessary wait or taxi.

Camping on Öland – Rules and tips

The right of public access applies on Öland, but with important caveats. Large parts of Stora Alvaret are nature reserves, and specific regulations apply there. Camping is often only allowed in designated areas.

One of the absolute best places to camp is Penåsa rastplats . It is an old railway station that now functions as a hub for hikers. There are shelters, fireplaces and often access to water (always check the status before setting off). It is a perfect base for exploring Alvaret.

When camping outside the reserves, choose your spot carefully. Avoid the sensitive coastal meadows and stay away from grazing animals. The cows on Öland are part of the landscape conservation, but they don't always appreciate company in their pasture in the middle of the night.

Summary: Balance is key

Hiking on Öland is about finding balance. You need equipment that protects against the relentless wind, but you don't want to carry too much on the rough trails. You need to prepare for total desolation on Alvaret, but also be ready for social gatherings in the small row villages.

Öland punishes those who are unprepared for water shortages and wind, but rewards those who dare to stop and listen to the silence over the limestone plain. It is a hike for the soul, where the vast views provide perspective on life.

Whether you're taking a day trip to Borgholm Castle or doing the entire Mörbylångaleden trail, make sure your gear is functional rather than trendy. It's function that counts when the sun is shining and the wind is whipping in from the Kalmar Sound.

Are you planning your next trip? Check out our selection of sleeping mats and outdoor kitchens to make your Öland night as comfortable as possible.