Cycling around West Lake – Marco Polo's Lake in 40 degree heat

When Marco Polo visited Hangzhou in the 13th century, he called the city "Kinsay" and described it as the most beautiful and magnificent city in the world. He wrote of stone bridges, wide streets and the mirror-like West Lake.

When I was there a few years ago, it was hard to argue with his description, but there was one detail Marco forgot to mention: the relentless summer heat.

This is the story of a day when the thermometer climbed towards 40 degrees, and how a simple bike ride around one of the world's most iconic lakes turned into a lesson in endurance, fluid management and the importance of the right equipment.

A furnace of history and humidity

We woke up to a day that felt heavy even at breakfast. In Hangzhou, the summer heat is not just about the number on the thermometer; it's the humidity that makes every breath feel like drawing warm water into your lungs. But we had made up our mind. We were going to see the lake, and we were going to do it from the saddle.

The plan was simple: a loop around West Lake, a distance of about 12–15 kilometers depending on how close to the water you stay. The lake is the heart of Hangzhou, surrounded by mountains on three sides and the city on the fourth. It is a place that has inspired poets and emperors for millennia.

Pagodas and giant water lilies

As we rolled out along the lakeshore, the water was filled with boats. Old wooden sloops mixed with more modern tourist boats, all filled with people searching for a breeze that didn’t exist. Out in the calmer coves, we were greeted by a sea of greenery – the enormous Victoria lilies (giant water lilies) covered the water surface like great green plates. It’s a surreal sight; some of these leaves are big enough to support the weight of a child, although I wouldn’t recommend trying it in the middle of a Chinese summer.

Farther away, on a hill facing the southern shore, stood the mighty Leifeng Pagoda. The original pagoda collapsed in 1924, but the current copper and stone reconstruction stands as a reminder of the city’s deep history. Viewing it against the hazy, sun-bleached sky was like cycling through a classic Chinese ink painting.

When technical equipment becomes a lifeline

At 35 degrees, your body starts to protest. At 40 degrees, your clothing becomes crucial to whether you can even continue. This is where the difference between a regular cotton shirt and technical functional clothing becomes painfully clear. In cotton, you quickly become wet, heavy and uncomfortably chilled once you stop – or the fabric sticks to your skin and blocks all natural ventilation.

At HikingStore we often talk about material choices, and this day in Hangzhou was the ultimate test. A shirt with high moisture transport and built-in UV protection is not just a "nice to have"; it's what keeps you from suffering from heatstroke.

It's all about balance. Just as we discuss in our guide to down when it comes to keeping warm on cold nights, summer gear is all about managing the body's temperature regulation under pressure. What is the product actually designed to handle? In 40-degree heat, the answer is: maximum airflow.

The rescue in the city

After a couple of hours in the "oven" around the lake, we had to surrender to hunger and the need for coolness. We steered our bikes towards the central parts of Hangzhou and found a restaurant that offered the most valuable luxury in China in July: air conditioning.

Sitting there, with a plate of local food and feeling your body temperature slowly drop, was the absolute highlight of the day. It’s an important lesson for all adventures – whether you’re hiking in the Swedish mountains or cycling in China: know your limits. Nature (or the weather) always wins if you try to force yourself forward without a break.

One last challenge

The most absurd thing about this day? When we got back to the hotel after the bike ride, I wasn't satisfied. I still had energy left, or maybe it was just the temporary coolness from lunch that gave me a false sense of invincibility. I laced up my running shoes and did the same lap again – this time running. In total, it was almost 20 kilometers of running in the afternoon heat.

Was it logical? No. Was it a good way to test your endurance? Absolutely. But it just underscored what I always tell our customers at HikingStore : the equipment is the means, but your own preparation and respect for the elements is the goal.

Summary

West Lake is magical, and I understand why Marco Polo was so taken. But experiencing it on a bike in 40-degree weather requires more than just a rental ticket. It requires water, the right body material, and the ability to stop when needed.

If you're planning your own adventures in extreme temperatures, check out our range of lightweight backpacks with ventilated carrying systems. Keeping your back dry is half the battle when the sun is at its hottest.

Have you ever experienced an adventure where the weather was your biggest enemy? Share it with us – we love hearing about journeys that require that little bit extra from both man and machine.

Best regards, Anders Mickelsson Founder, HikingStore