Corsica and the Mediterranean Islands – GR 20, GR 221 and more island trails

Part 4 of 8 in the Europe part of the World's Hiking Trails series.

Corsica is a mountainous Mediterranean landscape, not an easy coastal walk. The GR 20 runs from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south through the island's mountain range. Here you can expect steep climbs, rocky terrain and exposed passes. Mallorca and Elba offer other types of island hiking: old stone paths, olive groves, coast and lower altitudes. But regardless of the island, the same thing applies: free camping is not something you should count on.

1. GR 20 – Corsica’s demanding mountain ridge

The GR 20 is around 179–180 kilometres according to standard route information and is usually divided into 16 stages. Many people plan for 14–16 days, but the route is demanding enough that it is wise to let the terrain, weather and your own daily fitness dictate the pace. Distance information varies between maps and sources, and different guides state between approximately 176 and 190 kilometres depending on the measurement method and route choice. Therefore, check the current official route and stage division before planning.

The northern part is more technical and rocky. There, boulder terrain, steep passes and sections with chains or cables can slow down progress. The southern part is generally less steep, but still demanding. The GR 20 is usually considered one of Europe's most demanding marked long-distance trails and is not suitable for beginners without mountain experience.

Cirque de la Solitude is permanently closed to the GR 20. After the fatal accident in 2015, the old trail was closed and demarked. The official route now goes via the higher Pointe des Éboulis. Follow the current red-white markings and do not follow the old, closed route.

Season and conditions vary from year to year. June to September is a common planning period, but snow may remain on passes in June and afternoon thunderstorms are a risk. Start early, keep a weather margin and turn back if a storm approaches. Current route status and refuge operations are checked with the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse .

The refuges are managed by the PNRC. Advance booking is mandatory for all overnight stays on the route , both bed and bivouac, via the PNR Corse booking page . Bivvying is only allowed in designated areas at official refuges. Wild camping is prohibited.

2. GR 221 – Mallorca's stone paths and cultural landscapes

The GR 221, Ruta de Pedra en Sec, follows historic paths through the Serra de Tramuntana. The Consell de Mallorca indicates approximately 261 kilometres of signposted route including variants. The main route between Port d'Andratx and Port de Pollença is approximately 150 kilometres and is often divided into nine stages.

Unlike the GR 20, the GR 221 is mostly on paved mule tracks through terraces, olive groves and old mountain villages. It is less technical, but the uneven surface and differences in altitude can still tire feet and knees. Refuges are located along parts of the network, but not at every stage. Book well in advance via the Consell de Mallorca's refuge portal .

Hiking on the marked trail does not require a special hiking permit, but the trail crosses private land. Stay on the signposted path and do not camp freely. The official trail information from the Consell de Mallorca has up-to-date maps and stage information.

3. Mare e Monti Nord – Corsica with more coast and village life

If you want to experience Corsica without the GR 20's long series of alpine passes, Mare e Monti Nord is an alternative. The route runs between Calenzana and Cargèse, through forests, coastal landscapes and villages with gîtes. A common description states around 121 kilometres and ten days. However, the number of stages and total distance varies between published versions: FFRandonnée lists a nine-day division whose stated sections add up to around 111 kilometres. Use the current map when planning your days.

This is still a multi-day hike with elevation gain, but the city logistics and accommodations provide a different rhythm than the GR 20. It's a good comparison for those who want Corsica's trails and scenery without the same technical mountain terrain. See FFRandonnée's information on Mare e Monti Nord .

4. Selvaggio Blu – Sardinia for experts

Selvaggio Blu along the coast of Sardinia is approximately 40–60 kilometers depending on the variant and often takes four to seven days. It is not a typical marked GR trail . Expect demanding navigation in bushy karst terrain, exposed passages, technical climbing and rappelling.

This is a tour for very experienced hikers with climbing skills. A professional local guide is highly recommended; do not treat the trail as a regular hiking tour. Baunei has a system for confirming itinerary and overnight stays. Please check current information directly with Turismo Baunei before planning.

5. Grande Traversata Elbana – a clear long-distance trip on Elba

The GTE crosses Elba along the island's mountain ridges, providing a long-distance walk without the technical difficulty level of the GR 20. The national park states 55.6 kilometres from Cavo to Patresi via the northern branch, or 47.2 kilometres to Pomonte via the southern. Four days is a common plan. Add about eight kilometres of connecting paths if you are walking to and from villages for accommodation.

There are no refuges or bivouacs along the trail according to the usual stage planning. Stay overnight in villages and book in advance. See Parco Nazionale Arcipelago Toscano GTE information .

6. Camí de Cavalls GR 223 – Menorca around the island

The Camí de Cavalls is a historic walking and riding trail that runs around Menorca. The signposted route is around 185 kilometres. The official website divides the trail into 20 sections, which can be combined into around 10–13 longer walking days or shorter coastal trips.

Rocky coastline and summer heat make water planning important. Start early, fill up where possible, and don’t count on being able to buy water along every stretch. Free camping is not permitted; plan on staying in villages or hotels instead. Check trail status and current sections on the official Camí de Cavalls website .

Rules and access: plan your overnight stays

France, Italy and Spain do not have a general right of way that gives the same freedom as in the Nordic countries. On the GR 20 you book both a refuge site and a bivouac in advance, and bivouacs are only allowed at official refuges. On Mallorca you walk on a marked path over private land; follow the path and book refuges through the Consell de Mallorca. In Sardinia you should check local regulations and any itinerary registration with Baunei. On Elba and Menorca you use authorised campsites or other permitted accommodation; protected areas may have additional regulations.

Burning is prohibited or strictly regulated, especially during the summer fire season. Dog regulations vary and dog bans may apply in protected areas. Always check local regulations before you go. In the Nordic countries, the right of public access allows for greater freedom, but on the Mediterranean islands, accommodation and bivouacs usually need to be planned in advance.

Season, safety and packing

On the GR 20, the weather can change quickly, even in the height of summer. Rocky, steep and exposed terrain requires sure footing and experience in mountain hiking. Check the weather and trail status, keep the group together and stop if the weather or fatigue makes it unsafe. On Mallorca, Elba and Menorca, heat and lack of water become key issues: bring sufficient water capacity, sun protection and a map or offline maps. Mobile networks may be lacking in the mountains. The emergency number in Europe is 112. Make sure your insurance covers mountain rescue and helicopter transport.

Pack according to the route. Good grip in your shoes, poles, first aid, weather protection and navigation equipment are more important than chasing every gram. The GR 20's refuges and other accommodations can make packing easier, but check if sheets are required and bring a sleeping bag or quilt with the right comfort temperature: nights at altitude can get cold even in the Mediterranean. Read our guide to down in sleeping bags when comparing insulation and temperature needs.

For coastal trails, water capacity and sun protection often outweigh thick insulation. Look at backpacks , sleeping pads , sleeping bags and tents based on what the trip actually requires. Feel free to use our mountain hiking packing list as a basis and adapt it to your accommodation. The right equipment is the one that works reliably when the weather changes.

Which island route suits you?

The comparison point complements the six routes described: it shows how much technical skills, heat tolerance and planning the different island routes require.

Next part in the series: Great Britain and Ireland – from coastal trails to long walks through green landscapes.

Sources

• FFRandonnée: GR 20 and Mare e Monti Nord
• PNR Corse: GR 20 and booking of refuges and bivouacs
• Consell de Mallorca: GR 221 and refuge booking
• Baunei Tourism: Selvaggio Blu
• Parco Nazionale Arcipelago Toscano: GTE
• Cami de Cavalls, Menorca
• European Commission: 112