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The final part of the Europe series takes us to Iceland and Greenland. The landscape here is volcanic, barren and open. The weather can change quickly, the wind affects both walking and camping, and a long summer day does not mean a warm night.
The trails also differ in how much support they offer. On Laugavegur, many plan around pre-booked cabins. The Arctic Circle Trail is a remote wilderness trail where you carry food and fuel for the entire trip and must be able to find your way yourself. The question is not just how far you want to go, but how independent you are prepared to be.
Laugavegur: four stages through the Icelandic highlands
Laugavegur is about 55 kilometers long and runs from Landmannalaugar in the north to Þórsmörk in the south. FÍ, the Icelandic Hiking Association, manages the trail and strongly recommends hiking in that direction. This also matches the booking system for their cabins.
A typical plan is four hiking days:
- Landmannalaugar–Hrafntinnusker: approximately 12 km. Rhyolite mountains, lava and geothermal areas characterize the start.
- Hrafntinnusker–Álftavatn: approximately 12 km. Snowfields, ravines and snow bridges may require attention, even in summer.
- Álftavatn–Emstrur: approximately 16–17 km. Open landscape, black sand fields and fords over watercourses.
- Emstrur–Þórsmörk: approximately 15 km. Canyons and river crossings are followed by greener vegetation as the trail approaches Þórsmörk.
The length of the stages varies slightly between different plans, especially where hikers choose Hvanngil instead of Álftavatn. Therefore, plan according to the accommodation you have actually booked, not just according to a general division of stages.
In Landmannalaugar you will encounter colored rhyolite rocks and hot springs. Further south you will find black sand fields, snowfields and exposed passes. Snow can remain high up well into summer, and some ravines may accommodate thin or unstable snow bridges. Do not wade a river without carefully assessing the current, depth and weather. Water levels can rise quickly after rain.
Season, cottages and planning
FÍ states on average that the trail is accessible from around June 25th to September 15th , but the dates are governed by snow, weather and when the highland roads open. This is an approximate season, not a promise that the trail will be safe or passable on a particular day. July and August tend to be the most popular hiking months.
Cabins and campsites at, among others, Landmannalaugar, Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn and Emstrur must be booked in advance. Places fill up quickly during high season. Also check what applies to each overnight stay: some places have more service than others, and garbage may have to be carried on.
FÍ's trail information for Laugavegur contains stage suggestions and current guidance. Check the weather and road status every day before starting and during the trip. The Icelandic meteorological service can be found at vedur.is . On Laugavegur it is especially important to follow FÍ's current information about trails and cabins.
Fimmvörðuháls: waterfall and an exposed mountain pass
Fimmvörðuháls runs for about 25 kilometers between Skógar and Þórsmörk and is often combined with Laugavegur. From Skógar, the Skógá trail follows the uphill path, past Skógafoss and a long series of waterfalls. It then crosses the high, exposed pass between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull, before descending towards Þórsmörk.
Many people walk the route in one long day. An overnight stay at FÍ's Baldvinsskáli , about 900 meters above sea level, can break up the hike, but the cabin is basic and needs to be booked. It is usually open and staffed during the summer, on average from about 20 June to 15 September. Snow and trail conditions determine the actual dates. Check FÍ's information about Baldvinsskáli before you go.
The pass can be covered in snow well into summer. Outside the normal season, the trail can be impassable. Dense fog, strong winds and rapid weather changes mean that a good forecast in the valley is not enough to base decisions on higher terrain. Do not proceed if visibility or conditions deteriorate.
Arctic Circle Trail: approximately 160-165 kilometers without service
The Arctic Circle Trail runs between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut in Greenland. The length is given differently by official sources, so expect it to be around 160–165 kilometers . Many hike the distance in eight to ten days, usually from Kangerlussuaq towards Sisimiut.
This is a true wilderness trail. There are no settlements along the route and no possibility to buy food or fuel. You will need to carry all your food, fuel and equipment for the entire trip. Basic cabins are available along the trail, but they are small, unheated in the summer and are used on a first-come, first-served basis. They are not a safe accommodation option. Bring a tent.
The terrain consists of barren tundra, lakes and wet, sometimes swampy areas. The path can be narrow and disappear into wet ground; some sections are unclear or unmarked. You will need to be able to navigate with a map and compass and have offline maps or GPS as supplementary aids. Fresh water is usually found in lakes and streams, but bring a method for water purification.
Summer, June to August, brings long days but no guarantee of warmth. Mosquitoes and wet ground are common. September will be cooler and snow may fall in the mountains. The official ACT website advises against hiking between October and February. Always check current trail warnings, register your itinerary and read the advice at arcticcircletrail.gl and Visit Greenland . Mobile networks are largely absent and help may be far away. A satellite communication device or emergency radio is a wise extra precaution.
Access and camping: plan ahead
Iceland does not have the right of way to the same extent as Sweden, Finland or Norway. According to Umhverfisstofnun, Iceland's environmental authority , a traditional tent can be pitched for one night on undeveloped land under certain conditions. The rules depend on factors such as the type of land, proximity to buildings and whether the landowner has prohibited camping. A permit is required for longer stays, more than three tents, cultivated land or camping near a home or farm.
Motorhomes, caravans and similar vehicles are not allowed to stay overnight outside of organized campsites or urban areas without the landowner's permission. Protected areas may have stricter, site-specific rules that take precedence over the general regulations. In Fjallabak, where Laugavegur runs, overnight stays are limited to cabins and designated campsites, unless a ranger gives permission. Use official campsites and check the rules for the area you are visiting. Vatnajökull National Park also publishes advice and rules for visitors .
The Arctic Circle Trail does not have public access in the Nordic sense and there is limited infrastructure. Plan your itinerary, equipment and accommodation in detail and check current rules and trail status on the official trail website. In the North Atlantic, you should not assume that access and accommodation will work like at home.
Safety and packing for wind, cold and distance
In Iceland, wind is a key risk. It can make it difficult to walk safely and put a lot of strain on the tent. Rain and fog can come quickly, and streams can grow after precipitation. Check vedur.is and FÍ trail information every day. Wear sturdy, grippy shoes, rain gear and hiking poles. Extra grip may be needed on snowfields, but first assess whether the conditions make the passage reasonable.
On the ACT, self-sufficiency and navigation are more important than light pack weight. Bring enough food and fuel for the entire trip, a reserve for delays, and a plan in case the weather stops you. A tent needs to be stable in the wind, and a backpack needs to hold food and gear for longer trips without being heavy to carry.
For all three routes, summer nights at high latitudes can be cold. Choose a sleeping pad with sufficient insulation: too little insulation lets in ground cold and impairs recovery. Size your sleeping bag or quilt according to expected nighttime conditions, not how warm it feels during the day in a milder climate. Please read our guide to bird down in sleeping bags to understand how the properties and fill weight of the down affect warmth.
Pack a map and compass, offline maps and GPS as supplementary tools, waterproof clothing and a first aid kit you can use. Our summer mountain hiking packing list is a good base, but for ACT you need to add the food, fuel and safety equipment required for a long, isolated trip.
The best pack isn't the lightest on paper. It's light enough to take with you, but reliable enough when the weather changes and the trip takes longer than planned.
Europe ends – next stop is the USA
This is part 8 of 8 and concludes the European series The World's Hiking Trails . We have gone from the Alps, the Dolomites, the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean islands, through Great Britain and Ireland, the Iberian Peninsula and the pilgrimage routes of Europe – and now to Iceland and Greenland.
The next subseries takes us to the USA and some of the country's classic long-distance trails.